The Old Capital

Veliko Turnovo, or Turnovgrad as it was known then, was declared Bulgaria's capital in 1185, but it has a history of ancient settlements. Even though the city has lost its role as capital, it will always have a special place in the Bulgarians' hearts.

By Nils E. Bjørnæs

Veliko Turnovo is probably the most historically important city in Bulgaria. During the Iron Age the area was populated by the Thracians, followed by the Byzantines, who built a fortified wall around the town which made it easier to defend against hostile attacks.

In the 13th and 14th centuries, Veliko Turnovo became a place of political and economic power in Europe, as well as a centre for trade, culture, learning and literary activities. However, in 1393 the city was conquered by the Turks and burnt to ashes. During the Ottoman Rule it still kept its position as a place of learning, and later became the centre of Bulgarian national spirit and the struggle for liberation. Many of the revolts against the Ottoman occupiers originated here.

Finally, on July 7th 1879, almost 500 years later, Veliko Turnovo once more became a free city, and the rest of Bulgaria became a free country. Even though Sofia became the new capital after the liberation, Veliko Turnovo is still important to the Bulgarians.

Modern Veliko Turnovo
Today the old capital is the biggest university city in the country, with almost 12,000 students and 67,000 residents. Veliko Turnovo lies about 240km from Sofia, in the centre of the country, between the capital and the coast. So it may come as a surprise that such an important city still hasn't got an airport open for passenger flights. At the moment, the only way to get there is a three-hour journey by car or bus, whether you fly to Sofia or Varna. The closest airport is only 20km away but is currently only open for cargo, though this is likely to change in the near future.

Regardless of this, the tourists still find their way there in the tens of thousands, and Veliko Turnovo is constantly renewing itself with new shops and businesses. Last year the new shopping centre, Central Mall, was opened - the only one of its kind apart from in Sofia. The opening drew huge crowds and much fanfare, and for a while it was the place to see and be seen. But unfortunately most of the shops are too expensive for ordinary people, so they most make do with window-shopping.

In the old town, on the other hand, it is cheap. The food shops are tiny, old and crammed, and the selection is limited. However, most tourists choose to eat out so this isn't really a problem. And if you are looking for a new pair of shoes, you will be spoilt for choice! Bulgarian women have a special fondness for high-heeled shoes, so you can find stilettos in all the colors of the rainbow.

And for those of you that would rather bring back something more traditional, just head off the main street to the artist quarter. Here you can find little shops selling Bulgarian crafts, such as beautiful hand-painted ceramics, woven rugs and silk scarves, which cost virtually nothing.

The long and winding roads...
Walking around the cobbled streets in the old town can be pretty tiring, as the town is perched on the side of the rock and the houses are all crammed together in steep, narrow and winding streets. These streets are made of stones in every shape and size, which can make walking an exercise in the art of balance. And when it rains, the streets turn into torrents of water. So even though the young girls wobble around on stilettos, we advise you to use more comfortable shoes. And bear in mind that this is not a city for people with walking difficulties.

Veliko Turnovo has many museums and historical buildings, but the biggest attraction is still The Light And Sound Show at the medieval fortress, Tsarevets, which lies on Trapezitsa Hill in the outskirts of town. The show, which is both unique and spectacular, can be seen most summer evenings around 10pm, and is well worth it.

And why not finish the evening with a cold beer, or Rakia, and perhaps a meal in one of the many restaurants or bars? You can sit on the terrace with a view of the old town and the river Yantra below - we reckon it's a pretty good way to finish the day.

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